Friday, November 9, 2012

Where's Waldo and Beija-Flor

I guess it has been a while since I have been to this blog.  So much has happened... needless to say.

I have to start with yesterday.  Ziper na Boca is the chorus I am so happy to be a part of.  I have been working hard to learn the music.  Correction, the music is not so hard; it's the very fast Portuguese words that keep me awake at night- was that que or quem, how do I get 3 syllables on one note? etc.  After learning MOST of the words, I also have to add the dances.  It is wonderful to be tall.  And in the back.  I have a very important role- Beatriz and I are both tall, and we hide Jorge who has his back to us and is directing the men at a crucial juncture in one song.  Well, maybe it's not that important...

So yesterday.  At the university, there was a conference in the cultural center, I never found out what it was about, but we were to sing at noon and in the afternoon.  The noon concert was all our Brazilian standards which are all choreographed.  It's all fun and lively, and for the most part, about how wonderful music is in Brazil.  We did a another short set at 4, which was really an add on. When we all arrived, we came into a full auditório, with people laughing, and slides on a screen, of the elderly man talking.  Jorge explained that he was a famous Brazilian soap opera actor.  There was plenty of "Blah blah blah, we're so happy to have you, please accept this, blah blah blah..."   And then we went on to do 2 numbers.  The crowd loved it, and our famous actor sang along (in his seat) to all the songs.  The audience roared for more, so we did another.  Then everyone rushed this poor guy, and they had to establish order.  Gente!  The woman in charge brought him up on stage, and they got a chair for him.  They actually put the chair right in front of me, plunking it on my toe, and everyone crowded around.  I was stuck.  There I was, in a conveted spot, smiling for all of Brazil,who no doubt was seeing this on the life and leisure part of the evening news.  People were happy to touch him and receive his smile, but there I was, able to count the moles on his bald head.  I did feel like something in a children's book- find the thing that doesn't belong- or Waldo.

And where was Waldo before that?  Well, after Lee's GSB meeting here, which included people from North America, Europe, Africa and Brazil, he went to a meeting in Tennessee, and I went to visit my friend in South Africa.  On Saturday the 27th, we all went to a really cool botanical garden near here, then loaded into a van to go to the airport.  Jeremy, who was here for 3 weeks, went back to London, Keith who was here for 10 days, went back to Tennessee, Lee and Gideon were to go off for the weekend to Ilhabela, then head north, and Annie and I were going to South Africa.

A little background.  In June 2011, Lee was to fly to South Africa from Brazil.  When he arrived at the airport, they told him he couldn't go without a yellow fever vaccination.  They told him to get in a taxi, go to a clinic, and come back.  He did all that, and got on the plane in time.  Barely.  So we knew I had to have a vaccination.  I navigated the Brazilian health care system, took a number, and got my free vaccination.  On Monday.  When I got to the ticket counter, the clerk told me I needed 10 days incubation on the vaccination.  New rule.  I was gobsmacked.  How could this be?  She told me to go to Room 8.

Room 8 was SAA office for problems.  We spoke with the woman behind the desk who, after a lot of backing and forthing, told me I could buy a ticket to Europe and then SA, or the United Arab Emirates, but I needed 10 days.  Then she said that the only other way I could get  in was to have a doctor's note saying that for medical reasons I could not have the shot.  Great.  Saturday evening  in Brazil.  Who do I know?  Then Lee asked if it had to be a Brazilian doctor.   No.  So we got on the phone.  John Houde, not home (that started a flurry with my mother, "Why does Betsy need a doctor in Brazil?"


A correction.  It's not a ninha that is nest, it is o ninho.  It's all in a letter.  Anyway, our ninho has done its job, 2 bija-florinhos have been hatched, grown and literally left the nest.  We see them zooming around the garden on occasion, but  they are big kids now.  It's amazing to see such a condensed life cycle.  It was fun to be a part of it, but now they are gone.  No more hummingbird poop on our breakfast table anymore.  Like kids.






Monday, October 8, 2012

Flowers and Shoes

Bom dia friends and family,

I still haven't figured out how to get the i accented when I spell Portuguese words, but I have figured out some other things about Portuguese, which makes me happy.  I don't feel quite ready for artistic and effortless water ballet in this update- putting the technological things and the language things together right now, but I will put on my water wings and splash around gracelessly.

We have been here a week, and are by no means experts on Brasil, but I can tell you that Luis, our friend and one of our hosts said it well when he told us that "Brasil for foreigners is not for beginners."  In order to get paid, one has to open a bank account.  In order to open a bank account, one has to register with the Federal Police, and to get a CPF.  The Federal police are on strike.  So are the banks.  In order to get a cell phone, you have to have a CPF.  We may get one in 6 weeks... after we register with the police.  Oh, and for security, we need to notify the guarda of our comings and goings.  But we don't have a local cell phone, because we don't have a CPF...  We have a wonderful woman, Cristina, who speaks English and Brazilian Bureaucracy (a language not easily understood) and has escorted us here and there, and seems well versed in ways to get around the system as well.  Invaluable.  Yesterday we took a trip downtown to the police, who said they were open, only to find that they were open to issue passports, but not to register foreigners.  Enough.

I thought I would write about a few impressions this week, and I have chosen footwear and flowers.

Brasil is known for soccer, of course, but has gone unrecognized in an athletic activity of balance, grace and danger, more actively participated in by the female half of the population- sky high shoes.

Each day I put on my comfortable, sensible, New Hampshire style (oxymoron?) shoes and trek around on foot or bike.  As mulheres (Women) here either go with flip flops (a national shoe), sneakers, or they climb into something with 3" under the ball of the foot and 7" under the heel.  And they walk!  On Saturday night, we went with Ziper Na Boca, the chorus I have joined, on a bus to a chorus festival in another city.  The women all arrived in pretty normal shoes, but most of them climbed into this athletic wear, often with help,  for the performance.  And danced.  

Vivian, the director, is a short woman with lots of energy and expression in her movement.  She was helped into the stratosphere by a gentleman of the chorus, and then became a tall woman who was a bit land locked.  Quite tall actually.  She did not fall coming down the stairs, nor did anyone else, so I figured that might be a perfect score for the landing, but I do think Vivian lost points for trying risky things while directing.  Some of the other women did more, with the shuffle and stepping to the rhythm.  I confess, I had a knot in my stomach, just like my days on the swim team, watching our divers compete, and usually miss the end of the board.

Oh, the festival.  It was really fun. Two groups were ready for the... shower, and some were excellent.  I'm happy to say that Ziper Na Boca is a good group, musically, and choreographically.  There was one group that had us laughing the whole time, and we didn't even understand the words!  They staged their songs in a cafe with a large, animated proprietress who stole the show.  There were other groups who sang some Beatles- always amusing, and makes me wonder about our groups singing in other than English.  One phrase that stuck was, "You are my des-chiny..."  You see, 'ti' here is pronounced,  "chee".  And of course, no th sounds.

After the festival, Lee and I unlocked our bikes, and rode home through the empty streets of Barao (can't figure out the tilde) Geraldo at midnight on a Saturday night.  It was weird.  We arrived home safely, and were relieved.

Flowers.  As you probably know, Brasil has lots of biodiversity.  Birds, mammals, insects, plants, and people. Racially, no one here is a majority.  Ethnically, Brasil has drawn immigrants from the same places as the US, and many stories are similar, but we think newer.

On Saturday afternoon, we had our first rented car (another story...) and on this trip, I am happy to report that we had NO trouble getting to a nearby town, Holambra, using our navigator.  We went to see the annual flower festival there, in a town settled by Dutch Catholics after World War II.  Of course they did flowers, right?  

This event was like the Eastern States Exposition!  Of flowers.  When you first walked in, there were two oddities created by these plant nutty people: one was a blue orchid (actually a few of them), and another was a rainbow rose.  Each petal was a different color.  Looked odd to my tastes, but impressive none-the-less, like sand art in a bottle perhaps.  Each grain carefully placed, but in the end, the effect is underwhelming.  To me.

There were: Brasileiros eating all the things you eat at these fairs, and probably groaning about it later that night; a "rain of petals"; a "parade of the flowers"; concerts and more.  I got such a chuckle though, and tried to take some discreet pictures, of the olive skinned people in the Dutch costumes.  Not quite iconic.   There were many young people doing Dutch dances, in these costumes too, and the boys were all having a good time!

We checked out the little museum there, and it turns out that these folks arrived there, a deserted farm, after World War II, and created a community.  HOL from Holland, AM from America, and Bra from Brasil.  They chose Brasil because it was a Catholic country, and it was a big deal when they finally got their own priest.  There were photos of many of the original families, and many looked like our families, taken in the 60's.  Mom, Dad and a lot of kids.  It's a hoot to see stuff you have grown up with in a museum, like a typewriter, or a meat grinder.  We also saw camcorders more modern than ours in a museum yesterday.  That's going a little too far, don't you think?

Well, that's enough for now.  If you got this far, good for you.  I'll try to keep it short in the future, but, "... in the beginning...there was a flood..."  Is that how it goes?

Love to all
Abraço
Betsy  and Lee  (check out that c!)


Bom dia friends and family,
I still haven't figured out how to get the i accented when I spell Portuguese words, but I have figured out some other things about Portuguese, which makes me happy. I don't feel quite ready for artistic and effortless water ballet in this update- putting the technological things and the language things together right now, but I will put on my water wings and splash around gracelessly.
We have been here a week, and are by no means experts on Brasil, but I can tell you that Luis, our friend and one of our hosts said it well when he told us that "Brasil for foreigners is not for beginners." In order to get paid, one has to open a
bank account. In order to open a bank account, one has to register with the Federal Police, and to get a CPF. The Federal police are on strike. So
are the banks. In order to get a cell phone, you have to have a CPF. We may get one in 6 weeks... after we register with the police. Oh, and for security, we need to notify the guarda of our comings and goings. But we don't have a local cell phone, because we don't have a CPF... We have a wonderful woman, Cristina, who speaks English and Brazilian Bureaucracy (a language not easily understood) and has escorted us here and there, and seems well versed in ways to get around the system as well. Invaluable. Yesterday we took a trip downtown to the police, who said they were open, only to find that they were open to issue passports, but not to register foreigners. Enough.
I thought I would write about a few impressions this week, and I have chosen footwear and flowers.
Brasil is known for soccer, of course, but has gone unrecognized in an athletic activity of balance, grace and danger, more actively participated in by the female half of the population- sky high shoes.
Each day I put on my comfortable, sensible, New Hampshire style (oxymoron?) shoes and trek around on foot or bike. As mulheres (Women) here either go with flip flops (a national shoe), sneakers, or they climb into something with 3" under the ball of the foot and 7" under the heel. And they walk! On Saturday night, we went with Ziper Na Boca, the chorus I have
joined, on a bus to a chorus festival in another city. The women all arrived in pretty normal shoes, but most of them climbed into this athletic wear, often with help, for the performance. And danced.
Vivian, the director, is a short woman with lots of energy and expression in her movement. She was helped into the stratosphere by a gentleman of the chorus, and then became a tall woman who was a bit land locked. Quite tall actually. She did not
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From jiggly to not jiggly bottoms, and la ninha and democracy

Brasil hosts the next summer Olympics in Rio,  and I think it is a serious loss that the real athletes in this country will not be included.  Everyone here is soccer crazed, true, and we see people (loucos) riding bikes along the sides of the major highways, and there are many gyms of various sizes in urban  areas, but the serious athletes are easily seen (and heard) on the streets every day, doing their jobs.  These are the guys who spend ALL DAY running after a garbage truck that continually cruises the streets- in second gear I'm guessing- shouting and tossing small garbage bags into the truck.  You can hear them coming every morning, and I often encounter them, in uniform (like a team), running up the hills in our neighborhood.  These guys are fit.

Now can't you see the event?  Each country could send their sanitary engineers (as a garbage man I once knew called himself) to Rio, and set them loose with garbage to collect and a stopwatch.  X games.  Points for style.   Ah, the status, the chance to gain honor for your country!

So, those are the not jiggly bottoms (only surmised), but another observation has to do with our trip a week ago to Rio and to some beaches there.  I think the industry in this country with perhaps the biggest margin may be the bikini industry.  Or biquínis.  EVERYONE wears them here, even those who, as my mother would say, "shouldn't be wearing that".  These bikinis are also more scant than most of the ones we see on beaches at home; I did a little research and found that the bottoms consist of a piece of fabric generally around 3"x8", attached to a cord, and the front is a bit smaller.  I figure the total fabric involved is about 50 square inches.  The cost?  About $50-$90.  Do the math.  Oh yea.  The beaches are a great placê to walk and swim, and there are plenty of jiggly bottoms wherever you look.  I'm not sure I saw any lixeiros on the beach.

This is so funny.  Now that I have figured out how to use all the accents in Portuguese, my computer is ahead of me and thinks I need accents on área or placê.  I did not add those.  Geez...

Our trip to Rio followed a lovely visit to Minas Gerais, another state, where we spent 2 days with Horta, Cristina, and their grandson, 2 year old Felipe, and nephew Victor.  We loved the mountainous countryside, the people, all the local food they brought out for us, including the tropical fruit liqueurs that Horta made from fruit he carefully brought back from Bahía, and added to cachasa, the liquor made from sugar cane that is popular here.  Felipe was visiting avo and vovo for a week while his parents traveled, and they were all having a blast.

But, the name of the state- Minas Gerais.  This state hás a huge mining industry, and produces 70% of the GDP of the big economy of São Pãulo state.  So it is called, English translation, General Mines.  Imagine if Colorado or South Dakota were called "General Mines", or even, "Important Mines".  I don't think it would fly.  And it is an odd name for such beautiful countryside, and for a people who are known for their warmth and hospitality.

A little word about my new friend, Beija-flor, or Hummingbird.  Over the rickety card table where we eat our breakfast on the veranda, hangs a plant hanger that Beija-Flor hás turned into a nest, or a ninha.  She sits on it pretty much all day and night, taking little trips (especially when we startle her) to the bananas or other still unidentified fruit trees in the back garden. She is quite comfortable with our morning meal there.  I can't wait to see these babies.  This thing is tiny!  And do they cheep?  I'll let you know.

My last observation;  In the US, as you are all experiencing, democracy is annoying.  All those phone calls, political adds, mailings, signs...   Here in Brasil, municipalities elected their mayors, or the first round of their mayors, yesterday.  In Campinas there were 12 candidates.  In Brasil, democracy is annoying and LOUD!  In addition to the daily campaign fliers, phone calls, signs, ads, there are these guys (always) who drive through town with huge speakers on the roof of their cars, blaring either songs or speeches of the candidates.  We went to a nearby rural town on Saturday, and the streets were cloggged with booming speakers, and flag waving lovely ladies.  All in uniform, looking a bit like Carnaval.  I'm thinking that maybe decisions are made according to decibels, or how attractive the flag wavers are?  In Brasil, voting is mandatory, so unless you have a good excuse (travel, hospitalization, you are required to vote.  And the choices are not always